My experiences trying to learn the art of surfing

I am five months through a six month journey to improve my surfing with the sole (soul?) intention of surfing waves comfortably that will get me in the green room. I've spent three months in Indonesia and have been scatting around Central America surfing the El Salvador, Costa Rica and Nicaragua. I'm travelling with my fifth board, Zak (6'3 / 18 3/4 and 2 3/8).

I thought I'd blog about my experience learning to surf as its such a tough, long journey. Somedays you get it, your timings perfect and you zip down the line, most days you don't. Surfing has been so good for my ego. I've never been so bad at something, despite trying so hard but something just keeps me out there, no matter how bad I am. The sea, the ocean, the soul.

Tuesday, August 31, 2010

I survived the Mentawais!

I was sooo out of my depth and spent the first few days literally shaking everytime we jumped in the boat. I didn't help that eveyone staying on the island were amazing surfers! Eventually I realised that I wouldn't die and that even though the waves were so much bigger then where I usually surfed, once you're up, they are actually a whole lot more fun!

We stayed at Wave Park on Maniak Island. There were 12 of us in total, six Peruvians, three west aussies, two sydney siders and JeTaya......... a precocious two year old who made the trip just that little more special. I went through Samudra, a yoga/surfing/raw food group that run global retreats out of Dunsborough, Western Australia. We did yoga every morning and surfed 2 - 3 times a day................

I surfed most days with one of the girls working at the resort. Kristin and I were kind of at the same level (kind of except for the fact she had been on Maniak the whole season!). We mainly surfed around Playgrounds and Pitstops....and had two amazing surfs at Spankers (Four Bob) and Bikini's when it just the two of us in the water and perfect 3 - 4 foot waves. Those two coral heads at Spankers still haunt my dreams!

Most importantly, the 10 days in the Mentawais has started me on the course of Astanga yoga and raw food.....I plan to weave those elements through my life over the coming years..................................I'm not sure if I'll ever go back there. I dream about it now and its beauty is insane but I struggle with the white, male, surfer dominating such a landscape.............

Following the Mentawais, I coped a beating in Kuta - a nasty food poisoning case of Air Aisa and spent two days face first on the tiles in a crazy, LSD, Frida Kahlo inspired room at Three Brothers in Legian. This was followed by a few days in Ubud and then Ekas on the island on Lombok....................Inner Ekas is really the wave of my dreams! It was nice to not feel like I was worst surfer out there.