For some reason I really struggle going right. I live in WA at the moment (lefts aplenty) and spent my formative surfing period in Indo (even more lefts)...........it was my goal this recent holiday to work on my rights, sort out my duck diving (and I didn't actually realise I had created my own style of duckdive until I watched a few you tubes last week) and tidy up my foot work.
I'm pretty happy with my progress - I surfed three weeks solid with only two days off, practised yoga everyday, made some new friends and relaxed. I didn't sort out my rights, my duck diving still sucks but I am on a smaller board (6"2, 2 3/8 and 19 1/2). My timing (on the left) has improved out of sight and I am now ridiculously addicted. I managed to surf four times this week - Hu'y, god of the waves has blessed Perth with waves a plenty the last few weeks and the banks up at Scarborough are so fun!
This morning, my friend John and I surfed at Brighton, sharing the waves with just a few others. It was so pretty. My mind couldn't help stray to thoughts of the 2metre tiger shark I paddled over 6 months earlier around the same spot but not enough to get me out of the water! Its those sort of surfs that make all the other ones, when I'm getting hammered or really scared or surfing 1 foot mush with 50 others or when I am the worst out in the water by far (hello, Mentawais!) - all worth it!
