 |
| Las Flores, El Salvador, day 3 |
Hey Bec
I think one of the things you could work on is to relax and not be as
serious about it. I feel like you are a perfectionist which is what
makes you so awesome at things but in your surfing it may lead you to
get frustrated which is counterproductive. If im off base, feel free
to disregard.
You're
surfing really well i thought. riding a thicker/wider but not longer
board might help too. your board doesn't carry speed very well because
it's thin, so you have to work really hard to make sections. you
looked really good on those longer boards that you rode, but they
were so long. riding something like 6'0 or 6'1 but 19" x 2.5 or
even 2.25 thick might really be awesome. if you have mates at home
with boards like that you should ask them to try theirs to see how it
feels.
Ok,
i know that was more like two things, but in the end it just comes
down to enjoying it and having fun.
See
you in the morning!
:
)
hb
Kinda what I have known for awhile. I love to surf, I really do but I am ridiculously competitive with myself and with my friends who surf. I get so caught up with wanting to improve and getting better that I forget what I love about the sport. Why I wanted to surf in the first place. That its all about being in a beautiful place with great friends enjoying the moments as they arise. My ego and wanting to be the best I can be get in the way of love. I have only just realised how much this pervades so much of my life.
Most of the sessions we surfed with Holly were recorded so that we could watch ourselves surf and receive some critical feedback. If a picture speaks a thousand word then video footage gives you a million. It is a mortifying process but provides so much information..........Holly kindly made 2 minute clips of our waves and posted them on You Tube. Maybe one day I'll surf like her.
Most of the sessions we surfed with Holly were recorded so that we could watch ourselves surf and receive some critical feedback. If a picture speaks a thousand word then video footage gives you a million. It is a mortifying process but provides so much information..........Holly kindly made 2 minute clips of our waves and posted them on You Tube. Maybe one day I'll surf like her.
Anyway I am in San Juan Del Sur, Nicaragua at the moment. I surfed Playa Maderas yesterday and caught some super fun stormy waves. It reminded me of my days surfing Woolamai, Phillip Island in Victoria. I wish I had more time to surf some of the other breaks but the swell has been pretty inconsistent and the wet season is well and truly settled in. Tomorrow afternoon, I fly to San Francisco for the second last stop on my trip. Hopefully I'll fit in at least one or two surfs in Nor Cal.....anything to give to reason to hauling this 4/3 seam sealed wetsuit for the last five weeks.
man, holly's advice is really cool. there's definitely truth in the perfectionist thing. i've been frustrated many times and ruined sessions over it. that's interesting that she recommended you go shorter and thicker on the boards. I wonder if my boards are too thin. I have a feeling they are. Gotta have that speed to make the sections!
ReplyDeleteFunny that, I like that I can get that board under everything but my average wave count is 2 - 3 good waves a surf. On a thicker board the fish and that spider of ricks I was riding, I had so much fun and wave count was in double digits. I did get tired getting under waves though...........I'm definitely going to pick up some different shape boards when I get home and surf a variety.......and remember to love it not just let my ego talk!
Deletedude! awesome clip and write up... i hope you have a safe trip to HI!! let the aloha spirit be with you!
ReplyDeleteWow, I've read that advice that was given to you and I felt it's the same advice I have to give to myself! I am always so stressed to perform well and to progress that sometimes i don't have enough fun. I can't be relaxed on the lineup and at the same time i think i am to tensed when i am on the wave too!
ReplyDeleteHi Crenna............I'm surfing bigger boards at the moment just so I can focus on the having fun element.........so many more waves!
ReplyDelete