My experiences trying to learn the art of surfing

I am five months through a six month journey to improve my surfing with the sole (soul?) intention of surfing waves comfortably that will get me in the green room. I've spent three months in Indonesia and have been scatting around Central America surfing the El Salvador, Costa Rica and Nicaragua. I'm travelling with my fifth board, Zak (6'3 / 18 3/4 and 2 3/8).

I thought I'd blog about my experience learning to surf as its such a tough, long journey. Somedays you get it, your timings perfect and you zip down the line, most days you don't. Surfing has been so good for my ego. I've never been so bad at something, despite trying so hard but something just keeps me out there, no matter how bad I am. The sea, the ocean, the soul.

Wednesday, October 17, 2012

Surf Camp with Holly Beck


Las Flores, El Salvador, day 1
My girlfriend and I are spending the week at a surf coaching clinic with Holly Beck. Its day 3 and already we've clocked up around 12 hours in the water. The camp is based at Las Flores, El Salvador, an incredible rippable long wave in the south. It is super fun and allows a nice amount to time to practise and link together turns.

There are six girls on the camp with Holly and Steph providing coaching and Jess running a daily yoga class. I thought I'd be mixing it up with twenty something rippers but the group is quite diverse in age and experience. Two women, Frazer and Isabel and particularly inspiring. Frazer has been surfing for over 30 years and still shreds on a short board. Isabel picked up surfing when she moved to Nicaragua for work and has developed such a beautiful style.

Each session is filmed and we spend the afternoon getting some critical feedback from Holly. Its is fairly confronting. Feeling yourself surf and seeing yourself surf are two different things. Over the past few years I've become more dynamic constantly shifting position in response to my placement on the wave. I have finally started turning and after a week of surfing rights in El Salvador, I am feeling pretty good on my take offs and heading down the line.

I've managed to put on 5 - 6 kilos over the last five months (care of trail mix) so I am not enjoying seeing myself on film and in photos. However, I've paid to much to be vain and understand the value of watching myself. I can see the tension I carry in my shoulders and how tight my upper back are, limiting my movements on the wave. 

I set several intentions for this week.
  1. To relax in the surf and select better quality waves.
  2. Refine my pop ups on the right side.
  3. Work on compression and using my lower body to drive the board.

Attached is a short video that Holly made of our first session. I am at the 45 second mark. Its a small one but such a fun wave. 



4 comments:

  1. yeeaa becca!!!! nice wave!!! i remember watching an HGTV house hunters version with holly beck when she bought that property. glad that her business is booming and that she's following her dream... and same goes to you! i wish i was a girl so i can be at the camp... i know she was trying to set up something for females only, or for couples... but i'm neither! hahahahahaha

    and yes, feeling while you surfing and watching your surfing are two, different, and sometimes unpleasantly shocking experiences. no one wants to see how big of a kook you are.. but hey, you're your biggest critic right?? good stuff!!!

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    1. Thanks KK.............I asked Holly for one thing I should work on in the water over the next 6 months. She told me I need to relax and enjoy myself more.............

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  2. OMG, I'm so stoked for you, Bec! Can I be one of the girls or what? I'll even dress in drag. I need to get me up on some of those waves! SOOOOO JEALOUS!

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