My experiences trying to learn the art of surfing

I am five months through a six month journey to improve my surfing with the sole (soul?) intention of surfing waves comfortably that will get me in the green room. I've spent three months in Indonesia and have been scatting around Central America surfing the El Salvador, Costa Rica and Nicaragua. I'm travelling with my fifth board, Zak (6'3 / 18 3/4 and 2 3/8).

I thought I'd blog about my experience learning to surf as its such a tough, long journey. Somedays you get it, your timings perfect and you zip down the line, most days you don't. Surfing has been so good for my ego. I've never been so bad at something, despite trying so hard but something just keeps me out there, no matter how bad I am. The sea, the ocean, the soul.

Monday, May 21, 2012

Surfing with soul


I've been surfing Bingin on the Bukit Peninsula for the weekend. I met these awesome girls Alexa, Chrissie, Kathleen and Roxie whilst surfing Nusa Lembongan last week and arranged to meet up with them. This place is almost perfect. A beautiful cliffside community, friendly locals and an insane barrelling left hander.

My accommodation was pretty low key but very cheap, AUD$8 with a view to die for. I thought I'd be completely out of my league but Bingin on a high tide is actually really fun. I had my most stand out surf of the trip so far. Alexa and I took at our short boards pre breakfast and took a few but really nothing to write home about. One of the local guys, Edy convinced us to take some mini mals before lunch............so much fun.

It was a good reminder for me to watch Edy surf. Without a doubt he was one of the strongest surfers out there but he gave up his session to help Alexa and I. I lost count of my wave count pretty early on. Edy's in is mid forties and surfed all his life. He just loves it, you can see it on his face. By the time Alexa and I hit the water for the second time, he was into his fourth surf. He had no intensity, made no mistakes and surfed boards of all sizes and surfed them well.

I often get caught trying to hard. I think that is the one thing that lets me down in the water. I want it so badly that I get so frustrated when I make mistakes and have a bad surf. I carry a tension in my shoulders and jaw and that means I just can't let go. In surfing you need to relax your shoulders, your upper body and your hands so you can throw them around releasing the energy and creating the turns. I know the best thing I can do for my surfing is just to go out there, relax, have fun and love that I am in the water................those tubes will come in time.